From the pantry · 03 August 2024 · 11 min read

The long simmer

Cannellini, sage, and a glossy pool of good oil: a pot of beans with nowhere to be.

The long simmer

Some dinners become better when you stop watching the clock. Beans are one of them. Soak cannellini overnight in plenty of cool water; tomorrow they will ask for little more than a pot, fresh water, and a low, patient flame.

Add a crushed garlic clove, a few sage leaves, and a strip of lemon peel if you have one. Bring the pot just to a boil, skim the first foam, then lower the heat until the water barely moves. Salt when the beans are beginning to soften, not before.

When the beans give way to a spoon, turn off the heat and let them rest in their cooking liquid. Remove the lemon peel, add a generous pour of good olive oil, and taste for salt. Some beans will be supper with toast; the rest can become tomorrow's lunch with bitter leaves and vinegar.

A pot of beans with nowhere to be. Cannellini, sage, and a glossy pool of good oil. It is dinner. It is also tomorrow’s lunch.